We originally reserved a campsite at Balmorrhea State Park because it was a convenient stopping point on the way to New Mexico.  A spring-fed swimming pool --- we visualized fat children with inflatable alligators and whistle-blowing lifeguards --- didn't sound very appetizing.  We'd at least be able to camp, we decided, and we could make an early start in the morning.

We couldn't have been more wrong.  While  the shallow 'arms' of the pool were bathwater-warm, algae-coated, and packed with rowdy children, the deep center section was a surreal combination of country club pool and coral reef.

Staring off the edge into 30 feet of water was like looking into a shallow stream.  We could see the fish swimming along the bottom.